Let’s Portray País Properly

Wine people, it’s really time we change the conversation regarding Chilean wine and its norms.

Your disregard once understandable, your observations once true. But it’s time to freshen up.

For example, take Karen MacNeil’s observations on the País variety in her second edition of The Wine Bible:

País (PIE-EECE): The name means country in Spanish. The prolific variety in Chile, where it is the source of common, undistinguished table wine. Originally known as criolla chica, país is the same as California’s mission grape. In the mid-2000s, DNA typic revealed both país and mission to be the Spanish grape listán prieto, brought to Mexico, Argentina, and Chile in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries by Spanish conquistadores and missionaries.

Nope. This is no longer the case. Chilean producers are creating some País wines that are far from common, undistinguishable table wines.

Oh sure, unexceptional País still exists, just like any other prolific variety out there. But there are also a lot of utterly delicious options available, the following some of my favorites:

Anything by Roberto Henriquez. Rivera del Notro, Santa Cruz de Coya, Chicha de tu Madre…they’re all gorgeous natural wines made from País that burst with flavor, tradition and innovation.

The juicy, none-left-before-you-know-it Pipeño by Tinto de Rulo.

País pulling its weight in complex blends such as Pedro Parra’s Pencoplitano.

Scintillating vibrancy in both Estelado’s Brut Rosé and Extra Brut sparkling wines by Miguel Torres.

Showing strength and more body than you’d expect from País, El Macanudo by Massoc Frères.

The wild, lively Pipeños by Cacique de Maravilla.

The rustic, ancestral flavors of El Viejo Almacen by Huaso de Sauzal.

Yes, País is prolific in Chile, that part is still correct. But the rest of the conversation needs revision.

Of course País cannot compete with the greats of Bordeaux, or the Super Tuscans and Napa’s finest. Apples to oranges. It can, however, be a fantastic option for those looking for more natural, low-alcohol, lip-smacking good wines. País is not pretentious, rather rustic and bursting with fruit. It’s fresh and far from mediocre when done right.

Other media have recognized this new way of thinking, but Chilean winemakers still have their work cut out for them. May their constant push toward changing the norms prevail, and may the world continue to take note.

Because Karen, there’s something happening here. What it is is very clear. There are winemakers creating Chilean gems. Wines that can no longer be condemned.

I think it’s time we stop, hey, what’s that sound, everybody look what’s going down…