In 2010, the man behind Cacique Maravilla wines, Manuel Moraga, lost nearly everything to one of the most powerful earthquakes in recorded history. This year, his Cabernet Sauvignon has taken a hard hit in the vineyards, significantly reducing production. But, in Manuel’s words regarding both situations, that’s just the reality of it all, not much one can do.
So he keeps on, letting instinct, tradition and creativity guide him.
He lost his bodega and house: Build a house, still make wine and slowly rebuild the bodega as he gets the means. So he lost a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon: Accept it, learn from it and focus on the healthy grapes.
This is not to say that the past few years have been pure heartache. Manuel’s natural wines have really begun to make a name for themselves, in Chile and beyond. And you can tell he’s excited and inspired by such positive reception, yet he remains Manuel Moraga, a genuine vintner never willing to sacrifice philosophy for a bigger piece of the pie.
“This is past being a passion. Past being a lifestyle. This is a thing of patrimony and worth. This is identity,” Manuel explains.
Winemaking is simply in his blood. His family has been producing wine in Yumbel, Chile since the late 1700s. Though he worked in the forestry industry for 20 years, he never completely left the vineyard; and in 2009, Manuel took over production, never looking back. He realized then that he had something beyond natural or whatever marketers want to push for next, he had something wild intertwined with his soul.
Manuel Moraga is the seventh-generation winemaker to work the Cacique Maravilla vineyards. The seventh generation to treat the vines as the star of the show.
He sees the word “vino” (wine) as a shorted form of “viñatero” (vintner). The concept of buying grapes or wine is baffling because the vineyard is the heart of his identity. The thought of harming the heart with chemicals just to salvage more Cabernet is unimaginable. There will only ever be as much Cacique Maravilla wines as his vines can produce.
There is no recipe here to ensure a certain level of production. It’s a natural process guided by Manuel. He’s out there working, basically sleeping and eating in his vineyards, to help them be their best, but nature has the final say.
Cacique Maravilla possesses the authenticity that massive wine producers so desperately crave and often claim to have. Manuel Moraga and his wines are as real as they come.
A wild and fruity Pipeño made from País. A Moscatel, Corinto and Torontel blend that has become my staple white. And others I haven’t tried yet because I missed the boat. Natural, honest and real wines.
Gutiflower 2016
As I took my last sip, I felt sad, knowing that my 2016 Gutiflower stash had officially been depleted. It’s the kind of wine where its wildness makes it what it is, but you can’t help but wish there was a recipe to make that exact wine every single time.
And don’t get me wrong, the 2017 vintage is also great. I bought six bottles upon tasting it. But I already miss that slight, enviable effervescence that 2016 so lovingly provided. It’s heart-eyes emoji worthy.
The nose boasts bubblegum with a touch of ginger. Near the end of the bottle, this transformed to whiffs of peach cobbler, which made me miss my mom, because she makes a mean peach cobbler. Ah, the power of scent.
It’s all snap, crackle and pop in the mouth. Vibrant acidity with tiny bubbles and peach-flavored Rice Krispie treats with yeasty, citrus undertones.
I paired this with grilled chicken marinated in Trader Joe’s Sriracha & Roasted Garlic BBQ Sauce, which I highly recommend. This slight heat played wonderfully with Gutiflower’s verve.
Manuel Moraga and his Cacique Maravilla wines are as real as they come.
I really cannot emphasize this enough.
Manuel and his wines are one and the same: wildly alive and unadorned, bursting with energy and honesty.
