After turning down many gravel roads and relying on Waze to lead me to a place unknown, I arrived at Viña Sanroke. It was my first time in San Rosendo, my only knowledge of it being that I liked several wines from the area. It’s the origin that declared to my palate, “Hey, Chile can do a damn fine Malbec, too!”
Sanroke is a small, family project that has been growing grapes in Chile’s Bio Bio Region for many generations. Prior to 2011, they produced jug wines from País or Moscatel de Alejandría and sold their fruit. It wasn’t until Don José Luis Rozas lost everything in the 2010 earthquake that he began to rethink the family business. At that point, it was either get out or go big, beyond the jug and into the world of fine wine.
So he asked for support and long story short, winemaker Juan Ledesma came to help the region recover and discovered that the grape they always referred to as “burdeo,” used in mainly in Pipeño to give more color, was actually and without a doubt Malbec.
Century-old Malbec vines were just what José Luis needed to get back to work. All of the sudden he had one of the world’s finest grapes right in his backyard.
As we walked through his campo, I marveled at how well-kept his organic vineyards were. (Organic in the sense that he manages it organically—no chemicals, fertilizers or irrigation. He has not made the major investment of certifying it.) José Luis gives this land his undivided attention, making sure that each plant is able to thrive. After all, if you’re going to go for it, a healthy, prosperous vineyard is your greatest asset. The earthquake might have destroyed his infrastructure, but not the spirit of the vintner nor the vines. And several years later, it’s deliciously clear that José Luis made an excellent decision.
Working with País, Moscatel, Carignan and Malbec, Sanroke makes low-intervention, natural wines that speak of San Rosendo and southern Chile: rustic, mineral, fruit-forward and always a touch of eucalyptus. Most intriguing, as you may have guessed, are Sanroke’s Malbec wines. They have a fresher, lighter version full of fruit: Malbec Centenario. A more serious style bursting with dark fruits and personality, aging at least three months in new French oak barrels: Malbec Santo Grial. And they also do a mashup Malbec-País: Tricauco, whose full tasting note is at the end of this post.
Vine Age Beats Wine Age
What I’ve learned most from living here in southern Chile, where old vines reign, is that a vine’s age is much more important than a wine’s age—as long as that vine has been so lovingly cared for, as in Sanroke’s case. Again, I was wowed by José Luis’s meticulous vineyard management.
Old vines might yield less fruit, but the fruit that it does produce is much more concentrated and complex. They’re tough plants, with roots digging down deep, requiring less water. Sanroke has some País vines whose exact age is unknown, but they’re thought to be more than 200 years old. We’re talking vines that look more like small trees, trunks you can embrace. They’re FASCINATING! And they’re still going strong.
And when drinking their País you realize, the vines might be old in years, but physically and mentally, they are strong and sharp. As the saying goes, age is just a number…
Viña Sanroke’s Future
With age comes wisdom, and as Sanroke gains experience, I have full faith that they will do as well as their vines. I’m very excited to see what’s to come from them. José Luis has two sons that are learning the ways of the campo and he hopes they will continue in his footsteps. And for now, his goals are the following: Survive off the vineyards, never get tired of his work, enjoy making wine more each day, and constantly improve. He is truly a gem, to the point where I think I might like his wines even more now that I’ve gotten to know him. And if that makes me wrong, well then I don’t want to be right.
Viña Sanroke is one to keep on your radar.
Take your mouth into the unknown with this Malbec-País mashup by @vinosanroke. They call it a “revoltijo,” a mashup, a mishmash from century-old vines down in San Rosendo, Chile. I love that. This juice ain’t no blend, she be a creative combination. Intensity and freshness. Age-old wisdom and innocence.
A spry wine with lots of red fruits and some worn leather. A smooth mouthfeel from patience and little interference. I highly recommend sipping while listening to Florence and the Machine’s poetry and power.
“Esta mezcla la hacemos, simplemente porque nos encanta,” says the label. We make this mix simply because we love it. Well, cheers to that.
🍷- Tricauco (Although it looks like Tricquco…)
🍇- 55% Malbec, 45% País
📍- San Rosendo, Bio Bio Valley, Chile
🌿- Natural
👀- How it makes me feel.
