Just when I was geared up to process and put words to all my recent experiences: passing the WSET D3, Israel, Greece, Macedonia, Poland, New York City, ITALY… something new has popped up!
WSET D4 – Sparkling Wines
Though I’m as bubble-mouthed as I am purpled, this portion of the diploma program has me on edge. I’ve fizzed well for years now, but never with the focus I’ve applied to still wines…bubbles are what got us through all the stress of conquering the WSET up until this point. They were there for us each time after taking exams and then again months later upon reading those sweet, sweet words: “I am very pleased to inform you that you passed….”
And, of course, they have also been there during life’s festivities. Few memories stand stronger than fine Champagne, for it means a moment took place, an unforgettable taste…naturally, as a wino, my senses analyzed, fantasized…but yea, until D4, sparkling wines have mainly been the ones moving me along this beautiful journey. Untestables.
I’ll never forget the Bollinger we popped at work when I got the news about passing the WSET Level 3 with merit in theory and distinction in tasting, all in Spanish. One of my firsts, the start of a deep love for Champagne.
Bubbles are not an easy blind. A sip gets all up in there, bouncing around, befuddling body, fucking with flavor, creating new things to think about such as mousse, the type and way CO2 hits you.
BUT, bring it on because I LOVE bubbles.
I rarely compliment the WSET text department. In fact, I’ve written public letters pleading for better. However, I kind of love this line in the D4: Sparkling Wines text: “Many factors affect the formation and size of bubbles, the transit of the bubbles through the wine, and the way the bubbles collect at the top of the liquid.”
Really it’s just for “the transit of bubbles through the wine.” All I can envision are bubbles in transit…
Bubbles in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Got more cars than the beach got sand: A fine Champagne with persistent foam. I am sorry that I just associated traffic and Dave Matthews with a fine Champers…but for the metaphor’s sake…
Bubbles flying down the Autobahn: Tank method aggression.
Bubbles riding horse and buggy: Ancestral method.
Bubbles on a UFO: the rulll natty ‘Nats.
All these bubbles transiting through your senses.
A few, arguably more helpful thoughts:
Vintage Champagne simply has an ethereal feel. I find that even if it is of lesser quality, it is richer than even the finest non-vintage Champagnes. There’s a special funk, each year with its own spunk. You can taste that time and confidence have been invested. It’s amazing…
The other night, I called a 2009 Drappier Vintage Champagne a 2009 Vintage Champagne, so it’s not all despair. For context, I’ve recently had the privilege of drinking several vintage Champagnes, the not-going-to-forget-about-any-time-soon kind, such as this Apollonis ETF 2014 I’m loving on below.
Just like with still rosé, the pink will never be my preference. Although it does go smashingly well with fish and chips, something I’ll never forget from my time with Viña Cono Sur. Of the lineup below at a recent study session, the majority were Very Good, but pink fizz will never have the poise of a blanc.
This does not imply that pink can’t be in there—hello Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. But minimal to no skin contact cuts out the coarseness that can creep in from phenolics, which can be further and unwontedly enhanced by CO2.
Stop shitting on Lambrusco.
From least desirable to the king, my ranking of the most well-known traditional methods: Cava—>Franciacorta—>Champs. All the “Cremants de”” somewhere in-between.
Body v. Bubbles, a developing case.
Now, press play and enjoy some notes on my recent vintage Champagne rampage.
Drappier Grande Sendreé Brut 2009
Pale or medium gold. Next. Gold is the point.
The nose has a medium intensity of butter on a whole-wheat toasted English muffin with stony, salty mineral notes and apricot. My super-taster gal Vitamin.Vino saw more clearly that this was a well-made baguette. I admit that very morning’s breakfast was still at the top of mind.
You see, I had managed to toast the English muffin so well with just the right amount of saturated and still surface-y liquid butter upon which I placed a perfectly boiled egg. It set me up for the day’s success.
Dry in the mouth with high acidity, medium alcohol, medium body and pronounced intensity. Flavor consisted of everything in the nose, along with white flowers, honey, hazelnut, CHEEZITZ, and lemon cream. Fine bubbles with a creamy mousse.
Gérard & Olivier Belin Extra Brut Millésime 2008
Toast, toast, toast!
Lemons are working deep in the mines while oranges are pulling up the autolytic-bathed shaft bathed. Carts of fennel and honey. As always, green apple.
The mouth: lemons —the hard ones— on white toast with mandarin oranges. I know a lot more was happening, but I also won that bottle because I won the game of chess associated with it. The knights and bishops require attention too.
I loved that bottle…
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2011
Let’s jump forward to 2011. Hours late to a dinner for which you don’t want to be late, yet Tattinger 2011 flowing in abundance all the same. Relationships solidified with glorious bubbles. I have no more notes, but for me, that moment is that past, present and future. Much love to the Fumanelli family.
Apollonis ETF 14 Extra Brut
In 2014, the ETF Extra Brut burst into existence, and I’m so happy about that. With Pinot Meunier leading the way in this Champagne holy trinity blend, we get outstanding complexity and structure. Bread dough, minerals and apples lap it up on a marshmallow island with specks of pear and cantaloupes doused in vanilla and honey. Such scents continue into the mouth while apricots and white flowers join the party. There’s a lovely creamy texture and persistent mousse.
So yea, there’s something about Champagne. Even the big boys at Veuve and Moet & Chandon can ride the wave. The kind of wines that lack theory but still carry thrill.
What’s the best vintage bubbly you’ve ever had? Share and let’s find a way to drink it together 🙂
